The specialist boxes are where the good ones are. Bird & Blend and Pact both print their lists and both undercut the department-store food hampers; Grind's pods fit any Nespresso machine; Ankerkraut's lighthouse is the best-looking box in the whole catalogue, and half its doors are refill sachets. Where a maker will not say what is behind door nine, the page says so, and the score reflects it.

Chocolate is the one category where the supermarket is the right shop. Cadbury and Kinder Bueno are the 10 GBP supermarket boxes; Hotel Chocolat's five boxes run from 13.95 to 80 GBP and are the ones to buy for an adult.